Monstera adansonii ‚Aurea‘ - Care

The Aurea likes it bright, but it doesn't tolerate harsh midday sun well in the long run – the leaves tend to burn quite quickly. Mild morning or late afternoon sun, on the other hand, is usually not a problem if you acclimatize it slowly: Start with a few minutes and gradually increase the time over one to two weeks, instead of abruptly placing it in direct sunlight – otherwise, burns are likely even with acclimatization. Therefore, a spot on an east or west window usually works well. Important to know: Because the yellow leaf areas lack chlorophyll, the plant cannot photosynthesize there. This means it tends to need more light as a completely green Adansonii, otherwise the variegation fades or the plant forms increasingly green shoots. If it stands too dark, that is usually the reason when new leaves suddenly grow back uniformly green - you can cut back these shoots if necessary so that the plant puts its energy back into the variegated areas.

Water only when the top layer of soil (roughly the top 2–3 cm, depending on pot size) has dried out. The Aurea cannot tolerate waterlogging at all – a pot with good drainage is essential. How often this is necessary depends heavily on the light exposure: with only window light, the plant usually needs noticeably less water in winter due to the shorter, weaker days than in summer. However, if it's under a plant lamp with sufficient daylight hours, it continues to grow almost equally year-round – then the water requirement remains stable over winter, and you don't have to artificially reduce it. In any case, the finger test is more reliable than a fixed calendar rhythm.

Monsteras are considered heavy feeders, so regular fertilization is not an optional extra but makes a noticeable difference in growth and leaf size. How often you fertilize depends heavily on the specific product and its concentration, ranging from weekly with a highly diluted solution to every few weeks with more concentrated all-purpose fertilizers. It's best to follow the dosage instructions on the respective packaging rather than a general rule, as values can vary significantly between manufacturers. If the plant is only by a window, you can pause fertilization in the fall and winter because growth naturally slows down due to weaker light. Fertilizing when there is hardly any growth is unproductive and can even stress the roots. However, if a plant lamp with sufficient daylight hours is in use, growth activity remains about the same even in winter, so fertilization should continue rather than be automatically paused. Rely on the actual growth of the plant, not the calendar.

We consciously alternate between different fertilizers for our own plants – currently including COMPO COMPLETE, Foliage Focus, Liquid Gold Leaf, and Hesi TNT-Complex, supplemented with Hesi Root Complex, Hesi PowerZyme, and CalMag as needed.

It should be loose and well-draining – an aroid mix of, for example, soil, orchid bark, and perlite has proven effective. Heavy, compacting soil promotes waterlogging and thus root rot, especially with this rather sensitive variety.

As a tropical plant, it likes humidity—60 to 80 % relative humidity is ideal, but it generally tolerates normal indoor air conditions. Many owners report that the plant also copes well with significantly higher humidity—in greenhouses or terrariums, Adansonii varieties often grow without any problems at 90 % and develop particularly robust aerial roots. The only important thing is to ensure sufficient air circulation; otherwise, persistently high humidity can lead to mold or fungal problems. Avoid spraying the variegated areas of the leaves directly: the light-colored spots may turn brown as a result, since they are thinner and more delicate than the green tissue. It’s better to group the plants together, place a bowl of water nearby, or use a humidifier. Temperatures between 18 and 27 °C are optimal; temperatures should not drop below about 15 °C for extended periods.

With support (moss pole or trellis), Aurea grows significantly more compactly and forms larger leaves with more pronounced fenestrations (i.e., more and larger holes/slits) than when grown hanging. Without climbing support, it tends to remain in its juvenile growth form with smaller, barely perforated leaves.